Sumba, a Dynamic Mystery
Story and Photos by Ferry R. Tan
THE MEGALITHIC CULTURE
Sumba is a remnant of one of the last megalithic cultures in the world, where burials are carried out as a 'living tradition' for prominent people when they pass away. Large bollard blocks of 20 tons each are cut and dragged over great distances to build mausoleums for the wealthy and the nobles. Some tombs are decorated or carved with figures like crocodiles, turtles or other creatures to symbolize the noble birth or wealth of the deceased.
Funerals can be postponed for years or even decades, keeping the bodies of the deceased in the homes of the living. Not carrying out the necessary rites, including sacrificing large numbers of buffalo, cows, pigs and nocturnal protection rituals at the quarries where the stones were cut, may risk the fury of malicious ancestral forces. Animal guts are consulted to seek the approval of malignant ancestral spirits.
It often happens that people put themselves and their families in debt to be able to build gravestones according to the tradition to perform the necessary burial rituals. If it does not seem feasible in their lifetime, the duty is transferred to the next generation.
Sumba's history is one with a lot of folklore. Until this date, the culture of the island still demands that the faith of Marapu remains respected and worshiped. We see that reflected in the countless tombs and in annually recurring events such as the Pasola, an ancient war ritual and Wulla Poddu, the bitter month. Sumba's megalithic culture is almost 5,000 years old, but has remained well preserved.
This culture, in the form of stone tombs and, can literally be found everywhere in villages, by the roadsides and even in the courtyard of the police station. Most graves have their own distinctive forms. The decorations have a high artistic value. The images and characters are determined by the region in which they were created.
The Sumbanese believe in a life after death and bury their deceased family members close to home, which is why there are cemeteries in every traditional village. They regard their houses as homes for the living, while tombs are considered houses of the dead. A grave is in general, larger in size as a form of respect for the ancestors, but also reflects the status of the deceased.
In West Sumba, for example, there are large stone slabs supported by four legs. The table-like grave is decorated with stone figures, carved with various ornaments. In general, these kinds of tombs are dedicated to kings and nobles. The locals call them Watu Pawa'i. A Watu pawa’i is not always built as a tomb, but also as a monument.
The simplest is called Watumanyoba, a stone slab directly placed on the ground. They are different in shape, including rectangular, square and oval and other irregular shapes. These graves are meant for ordinary people.
Ornaments usually come in three-dimensional reliefs and sometimes two-dimensional. There are also patterns that depict historical figures such as animals or geometric patterns from the latest era. Patterns are strongly influenced by the religious belief and the status of the deceased. The richer the people, the more luxurious are their graves.
According to archaeologists, the decorative patterns of the graves are the only ones that really represent the megalithic culture. Although other tribes in Indonesia also have this kind of megalithic cultures such as those in Nias, Sabu, Flores, and Timor but it is only Sumba that applies beautiful three-dimensional reliefs and sculptures.
However, something is interesting about the megalithic culture of Sumba. Although Sumba firmly sticks to their traditions and culture, it has not been preserved of modernization. In some villages, there are tombs made of more modern materials such as ceramics or marble. Again, modern or not, the social status of the owner is decisive.
Sumba is steeped in prehistoric cultures that have gradually evolved to the present. Ancestral traditions handed over to the next generations have influenced the lifestyle and culture of the past for centuries. However, these ancient cultures and beliefs are still respected by the younger generations.
Villages are formed by rows or a circle of houses around large megalithic tombs. The relatives of you can leave this earthly life, but they will never leave their village because they are all related in some way. In the center there is often an open space for performing ritual dances and sacrifices, and sometimes a kind of altar or temple surrounded by a wooden fence. Others have a small house-like structures for storing cultural artifacts. Small stepping stones can be the graves of slaves.
THE MARAPU
As I traveled through Sumba, I discovered many things about the treasures of the island that many are unfamiliar with. I visited traditional villages and became intimate with the villagers and where I had the privilege to learn profoundly about their customs and traditions. I have learned that villagers claim to be Protestant, but still, pay tribute to their homeland Marapu with bloody sacrificial rituals.
The spiritual tradition is very much alive in Sumba and centers on the Marapu belief. Marapu is focused on creating harmonious relationships between humans and ancestral spirits, the Ina Ama (female/male). The earthly life is temporal, but the Ina Ama live eternally in Prai Marapu (Marapu Heaven). The Rato is a traditional priest who can pass messages between ordinary folk and the Ina Ama. One way to convey a godly message is by reading chicken intestines and pig or buffalo livers. Many things are considered “pamali” or taboo, such as particular paths in villages or rocks.
The Marapu has influenced almost every aspect of the lives of the Islanders, from the shape of their houses to the funerals. In the spirit of Marapu, people believe that they are guarded by their ancestors and therefore maintain a harmonious relationship with them through ceremonies led by priests they call Rato, who is seen as direct communicators.
A Rato is always a male person who is a respected and honored member of the community. The rule to becoming a Rato often passes from father to son. A Rato must have an impeccable memory, because there is no formal written version of Marapu prayers, that the Rato must recite the prayers orally in all ceremonies. Some rituals can last up to 12 hours which makes this oral tradition an art in itself.
Other rituals are based on life such as birth, weddings, and funerals. Rituals around death seem to be more important than life itself. The Sumbanese spend a lot of time and money at appeasing their ancestors. For example, the ritual of Tingi Watu focuses on moving huge boulders from quarries to make graves and can take days. The Pasola, a spear-throwing festival on hose-backs to celebrate a successful harvest, took four days but has become a tourist attraction. The spirits are appeased by rituals and sacrifices to keep the world in balance. This kind of ceremonies can be elaborate and expensive, for instance, once there was a king who had to wait 17 years after his death before he could afford his own funeral ceremony.
PERSONAL POINT OF VIEW
I continually look for images that tell a story, and Sumba has delivered those images. A picture is a memory and a kind of time machine that takes us back in time. Photographs are memories of events that we can either cherish or ignore. The choice is up to us. My trip to Sumba was an experience not to be forgotten.
I believe that the best thing someone can do is do the things that he loves. For me, it is traveling and capturing moments I can share with others to remind them of the importance of preserving history, especially in the remote regions of Indonesia that seem to be forgotten.
Curiosity drives me to explore destinations off the beaten path and go to places some people can only imagine, and meet people to learn about their customs and traditions. I love the outdoors, and to be one with nature. I prefer to travel light with a minimum of equipment.
Moreover, Sumba is a photographer's paradise. The remarkable local architecture and landscapes are absolutely breathtaking, and a must see. It was a privilege to learn about the island life.
If you ever plan to visit Sumba, then keep in mind that the island has more to offer than just its stunning landscapes and breathtaking beaches.
If you ever plan on visiting Sumba, then keep in mind that it has more to offer than breathtaking scenery and stunning beaches. If you are prepared to travel off the beaten track and change your living standards, but also able to disappear from your digital world for a little while, I guarantee that you will get the best of everything Sumba has to offer. I have been to quite some places, but Sumba has provided the authenticity that I so far haven't found in other places I've been to in Indonesia.
Mai La Humba!
Photography is my work
And travel is my game
They are the reason why I survive
In my Body and in my Mind
My work brings the food to my table
...and pays for my game
And my game brings the food for my soul
Therefore, I am my work and my game
Ferry R. Tan – 2020
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